Article and photos by Shawn Hamilton, Clix Photography

There are magical moments that necessitate a pause, moments to recognize and be grateful for. As I sit on a blanket in the sand of the banks of the Rio Corrientes in Argentina looking up at the Southern Cross in the night sky, fireflies floating around the horses who stand quietly tied to a large piece of driftwood, I stop to take it all in. Ranch owner Klaus Liebig tosses another log on the bonfire at the beach as his wife Gloria arranges a picnic spread of charcuterie meats, cheeses, and olives. This was the last full-day ride of an incredible week at the 1,315-hectare Estancia Buena Vista, just outside the small town of Esquina in the Corrientes province of Argentina.  

The evening’s ride, led by the setting sun, finished on a sandy trail visible only by the light of the full moon. Night birds weaved in and out of the herd as strange sounds resembling a wailing cat came from frogs in the wet marshy ditches. The day began with swimming with the horses in the lagoon and finished with a quiet moonlit lope as we neared the ranch for our last night’s meal of five kinds of homemade pizza cooked on the coals. Klaus and Gloria not only welcomed us into their home but shared some of their favourite horse experiences with us, creating magical moments to be cherished.

Estancia Buena Vista

Our arrival at the Argentina Gauchos, Cattle and Trails ride with Unicorn Trails started in the dark. After an overnight bus ride from Buenos Aires, my travelling companion, Carrie, and I crawled into our beds in the guest house to catch a few hours of sleep before the morning sun shone through the window. The view from our screen door reminded me of a safari — the vastness filled with cattle, horses, sheep, and goats. The couple from the room next door are on a bench under a tree taking in the warmth of the rising sun. 

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Horses, saddled and ready, rest in the corral for the day’s work to begin.

We make our way to the eight-bedroom main house, built in 1880 and purchased by Klaus’s grandfather in 1947. With the additional four-room guest house, the estancia can accommodate up to 28 people. A delicious breakfast is served on the covered veranda to the sounds of countless birds hopping between the towering trees.

The main house at the Estancia Buena Vista was built in 1880.

We mount up and head out of the corral. Before too long, we are knee deep in swampy water with capybaras¹ poking their heads up to check us out, and an array of aquatic birds such as spoonbills. The horses are well-behaved, sure-footed, and responsive as we make our way to a delightful location on the banks of the river, where scrumptious ravioli cooks in giant cauldrons over a fire. Hammocks hanging from trees are an invitation for a nap as the horses rest in the shade during the hottest part of the day.

The horses are well-behaved, surefooted, and used to riding through swamps up to their bellies.

With riders and horses rested, we mount up and head to a deep river crossing. Saddles come off and go in a small boat to be paddled across, and we hop on bareback to wade to the other side. Once the horses are tacked up again, our efforts are rewarded with a fast gallop along the river’s edge, the horses’ hooves squeaking in the deep sandy footing. We return to the estancia in time for a swim in the pool before the night’s barbecue of endless types of meat cooked over the coals, and select wines from Klaus’s shop in Esquina to perfectly complement the exquisite meal.

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Cattle and horses graze in the wetlands of Estancia Buena Vista.

Klaus rides through the wetlands of Estancia Buena Vista. The Iberá Wetlands in Corrientes Province, Argentina, are one of South America’s most important freshwater reserves, encompassing swamps, lagoons, marshes, and winding waterways that support an extraordinary diversity of wildlife.

Days in the Saddle

The well-structured days included morning rides followed by lunch and naps during the hottest periods, while the horses rested.  Afternoon tea with snacks was enjoyed under the trees on the lawn before early evening rides. The horses were always keen to gallop across the plains, make their way through swamps up to their bellies, or trot down the dirt road to the gaucho store where riding shirts, local shoes, and belts were available. 

Waverly cools down her horse after riding before turning him out to roll and graze.

Lunch was delightful in a beautiful setting by the river.

Delicious ravioli is cooked in a cauldron over an open fire by the Rio Corrientes. 

We spent a fun afternoon learning how to swim with the horses in the lagoon. As instructed, we held onto the mane with one hand and the reins with the other, stretching out along the horse’s back and floating gently beside them while only their heads remained above the deep water.

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Carrie enjoys a gallop along the water’s edge of the Rio Corrientes.

Carrie poses with her horse in the afternoon light after a ride.

A magical moment to be cherished. The author Shawn (right), with Gloria and Klaus on the beach of the Rio Corrientes under a full moon.

Mid-week, a storm rolled in, cancelling our morning ride, leaving blue skies and a cool breeze perfect for strolling through the pine forests and enjoying long canters as we looked for antelope. A picnic lunch of fresh fish and French fries cooked in oil over the fire was enjoyed along the riverbanks. After each ride, the horses were hosed down and turned out to roll in the sand. We dined in the covered patio behind the house where the meat sizzled on a giant barbeque and the wine flowed. Local talent played guitar and sang one night as everyone danced under the lights. 

Riding with the Gauchos

A shopping visit to the town of Esquina included a large tack shop where locally crafted saddles, whips, and chaps were displayed. Carrie purchased a hat and gaucho pants to dress the part for the afternoon ride, where we were able to help the gauchos herd the cattle and watch from the sidelines as they roped and tended to them. When a calf with a swollen belly was spotted, it would be cut from the herd and roped.

The gauchos are skilled horsemen experienced with livestock farming, often compared to the North American cowboy. They have long been a powerful symbol of rural culture and national identity in Argentina.

“When they walk through the tall grass, the grass irritates the sensitive skin of the young calves and often creates chafing or cuts in that area, which can then become infected,” Klaus explains. “Flies can also lay larvae in that area, which can cause infections.”

We watched in amazement as the gauchos went about their work spotting, roping, and treating the calves with an antibiotic, then painting their faces with coloured cream to identify those that had been treated and may have to be checked at a later date.

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A gaucho lassoes a calf to be treated and uses teamwork to lasso a bull.

The gauchos on the ranch are the real deal, continuing a lifestyle through generations that in some places has been forgotten. This multi-generational family estate has stopped in time, preserving the customs, culture, and pride of the cattle-ranching existence deeply rooted in Argentina’s history. 

Guests help the gauchos herd the cattle and watch with acute interest as the animals needing care are roped and treated.

Having ridden in many places in Argentina in the past, this was an area I had yet to explore, and I was very grateful to have experienced the Corrientes province on such willing horses.  Swimming with the horses, gallops on the beach, the moonlight ride, and the hospitality at Estancia Buena Vista are all memories to be cherished.

Swimming with the horses in the lagoon was loads of fun.

Galloping on the beach of the Rio Corrientes, a slow-moving river that winds through the lush Iberá Wetlands of Corrientes Province.

My favourite quote collected from the guests after the ride sums it up nicely:

“What will remain unforgettable for me are the shared evenings with great food, wonderful conversations, and Argentinean music. Equally special were the rides at sunrise and sunset, when everything was bathed in golden light. Those moments felt almost magical. It was not just a riding holiday, but an experience that will stay in my heart for a long time.”

Learn More about the Argentinean Odyssey Ride with Unicorn Trails.

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Footnotes

1. A capybara is a giant, gentle rodent native to South America and the largest rodent in the world. With its barrel-shaped body, webbed feet, and calm personality, it spends much of its time lounging in water or socializing with other animals.

Photo: Wiki/Giles Laurent